By GoCaldas Team●26 April 2020
Kitesurfing, Birdwatching and Seafood by the Water: A Guide to the Óbidos Lagoon
Portugal’s largest coastal lagoon is one of the treasures of Caldas da Rainha. What to do, where to see birds, where to eat and sleep, and the traditions of the lagoon.
The Óbidos Lagoon is one of the hearts of the municipality of Caldas da Rainha. It is considered the largest lagoon system on the Portuguese coast. Its salt water is a sanctuary for many species and a playground for sports lovers.
Covering about 6.9 km², with an average depth of 2 metres, the lagoon has two arms: the “Braço da Barrosa” to the east and the “Braço do Bom Sucesso” to the west. It is about 6 km long and between 1 and 1.5 km wide, perfect for long walks with great views.
Its natural beauty makes the Óbidos Lagoon an excellent choice for a holiday or a short break.
What to do
There is plenty to do around the lagoon. Water sports reign supreme, but you can also go birdwatching, hiking, walking, running or cycling.
Birdwatching
Where to see the birds
There are several good spots. One is the village of Vau, in the municipality of Óbidos, from where you walk down the slope to the southern arm of the lagoon.
From there, follow a dirt track on the right along the edge of the lagoon. Here you can see little grebes, great cormorants and grey herons. In September it is a good place to spot whimbrels.
On the west side of the lagoon, near Bom Sucesso, you can see lesser black-backed gulls and, above all, yellow-legged gulls.
Near Arelho, walk from the airstrip. In winter you can see northern lapwings and grey herons.
Keep your eyes open for small birds such as meadow pipits and zitting cisticolas, and, near the bushes, small flocks of common waxbills, European greenfinches and goldfinches.
The mouth of the river Real, at the end of the airstrip, is home to many water birds. The observation tower gives a good view of great cormorants, mallards and several waders, including oystercatchers, grey plovers, whimbrels and bar-tailed godwits.
Small flocks of flamingos sometimes appear here. In winter you can see black-necked grebes, and rare brent geese and mute swans have also been recorded.
Poça do Vau, with its large reed bed, is another good spot: in spring you can see purple herons, western marsh harriers and great reed warblers.
Rare species recorded at the lagoon include the mute swan, brent goose, horned grebe, long-tailed skua and ring-billed gull.
Sports
The famous winds of the Silver Coast make the Óbidos Lagoon perfect for water sports, especially those powered by the wind, such as kitesurfing, windsurfing and sailing, as well as paddleboarding, canoeing and rowing.
You can go it alone or get help from the professionals at the Óbidos Lagoon Sailing School, open for most of the year.
If you prefer to stay on dry land, go for a walk or a bike ride: a cycle path runs along much of the lagoon.
Recommended guided tour
A private day along the Silver Coast: lagoon, beaches, viewpoints and villages.
Where and what to eat
Fresh fish such as sea bass, sole, plaice, brill, gilthead bream, mullet and eels, and seafood such as clams, cockles, mussels, prawns and green crabs: there is plenty to choose from for a meal full of flavour.
There are restaurants in the village centre, and if you want a view of the lagoon or the sea, Avenida do Mar has everything you need.
Where to stay
Foz do Arelho and Nadadouro, the villages on the shores of the lagoon, have a growing range of places to stay.
There are guesthouses, hostels and holiday rentals listed on platforms such as Airbnb.
There is also a campsite just outside the centre of Foz do Arelho, on the road to Caldas da Rainha, and a motorhome area near the lagoon.
Lagoon life and traditions
Fishing and shellfish gathering are the main economic activities on the Óbidos Lagoon.
Gathering clams and other shellfish is a local tradition, and you will often see people collecting them, a real treat for a late-afternoon snack.
Bateiras, the traditional boats of the lagoon
The bateira is the traditional boat used by fishermen and shellfish gatherers on the Óbidos Lagoon.
These boats are open-deck vessels.
In the past, bateiras were widely used to gather seaweed. Today most of them have engines.
Other places to visit near Óbidos Lagoon
The Óbidos Lagoon is unique, but it would not be fair to finish without mentioning a few other places nearby.
First, the Foz do Arelho walkways, a wooden boardwalk designed by landscape architect Nádia Schilling.
This path along the clifftops above the Atlantic is truly dazzling and perfect for a late-afternoon walk.
If you like walking, it is probably one of the best options in Caldas da Rainha.
We also recommend Foz do Arelho beach, great for sunbathing and for surfing or bodyboarding.
Frequently Asked Questions
How big is the Óbidos Lagoon?
About 6.9 km², around 6 km long and between 1 and 1.5 km wide, with an average depth of 2 metres. It is the largest coastal lagoon system in Portugal.
What can you do at the Óbidos Lagoon?
Water sports such as kitesurfing, windsurfing, sailing, paddleboarding and canoeing, plus birdwatching, walking and cycling.
Where is the best place for birdwatching?
The mouth of the river Real, near the airstrip, has an observation tower and many water birds. The southern arm near Vau and Poça do Vau are also good spots.
More about Caldas da Rainha
- One day in Caldas da Rainha
- Best natural spaces in Caldas da Rainha
- What to do at Foz do Arelho
- Tours at Caldas da Rainha
This guide was put together by the GoCaldas team, the local travel guide to Caldas da Rainha. Please check opening hours and prices before your visit.